robertcdeming

I’ve spent two weeks walking in Italy. We have yet to meet an American, and most of the tourists seem to be Italian. So what did we find at 3 mph and six feet up?We found magnificent churches with tall slender bell towers. We can see these a long way off, and the trail invariably takes you to each, We found surprising art, like this old painting of Saint Margarita. She was born in 1247 and is (among other things) the patron saint of single mothers. The church caretaker told me her name, but Wikipedia told me the rest. We found mile after mile of trail and road atop dikes by rivers and canals, where we looked down on wheat and corn and vineyards and houses and back yards.We found the place where Ernest Hemingway was wounded in 1918 as a Red Cross worker in WW I. We found fruit and cheese and bread for trailside lunches at street markets. Sometimes we eat lunch in restaurants but only at the end of a day’s hike. We found that bicycles are everyday transportation. We found Cabernet Franc, which seems to be their favorite vino rosso (and is usually €7.50 a bottle). We found a winery with massive stainless steel fermenting tanks. It is was surprising; I’m used to the small hill country wineries.

We found the Adriatic Sea and an 11 mile long beach of yellow sand with tens of thousands of umbrellas. We found regular people.

We found mile after mile of flat reclaimed swamp land in agricultural production. As scenery goes, it’s boring. Next we explore Venice.

We spend our days walking the countryside- this was swampland drained by canals a hundred years ago. Much of the trail is atop dikes. At this spot there was a shrine to Mary at the intersection of three roads. Giuseppe Ciganna prayed the rosary there every day for 20 years. In 1510 Mary appeared to him there and told him to build a church there. This basilica is the result. This is clearly a tourist town. As we worked our way downtown one glass of vino rosso at a time we noticed it got progressively more expensive. But scenic We met this local couple and their son on the way. This was the last day of school. Today we will be walking through fields of wheat again. This is ready for harvest, most is still green. Grapes are forming on vines, corn is knee-high.Venice in three days.

We have been eating well in Italy. Breakfast in the lodging, lunch trailside, dinner in a restaurant. Pasta with shrimp, mussels, and clams. Watermelon at a vegetable market My favorite wine so far is Refosco, a red. Wine before dinner

Pasta primadoro is my favorite. Quite simple, a tomato sauce.

Pizza is really good here- scratch crust hand made baked in a wood fired oven. Cherries along the trail – out in the middle of nowhere and apparently not harvested. Very tasty. We pick up cheese, fruit, and bread for lunch at village markets. We have decided that “fresh” is one reason the food is so good. Lemon gelato. I don’t often eat desserts, but when I’m walking all day I need the calories.

Gelato is a daily treat. €1.3 each (about $1.50). Beer. That goes without saying. Then bed by sunset. Breakfast is at 6:30.

We seem to be running into gelato shops mid-morning. The Via Postumia started in front of our hostel in Aquileia and makes its way out of town through the excavation of the port from the 1st century. The most interesting part of the trail today was along a riverbank. The grass was sometimes taller than me and the only trail was some beaten down grass showing that a person had recently walked here. About 1km. We walked back through the town we had gotten off the train in yesterday. This is only a few kilometers from the coast. We finally got out of towns for a quiet walk in the country. We walked 10-12 miles today, will do same tomorrow. I am still getting up to speed. My feet are tired but I don’t have the heel pain.

We are staying at a fabulous BnB tonight and our host is a pilot- Italian Army helicopters then civil. Very nice space, very nice couple. No hostels around here, but it is still only about €20 each. This is the washing area.

I have been reading this book by Richard Rohr on my journey. I started a spiritual transformation 20 years ago in prison as a volunteer with Kairos Prison Ministry International, which I still am. This extraordinary book fits perfectly into my path, toward growth as a loving person. From today: “God has worked anonymously since the very beginning—it has always been an inside and secret sort of job. The Spirit seems to work best underground. When aboveground, humans start fighting about it.”